Italian bread, eggs, milk, butter, and syrup—those were always the five ingredients my railroad-worker father used to make French toast for us. He ate it plain, but my brother and I wanted ours topped with an unholy amount of sugar. I remember my Mom trying to teach me about portion control, in the hopes that I wouldn’t create a giant pond of sweet syrup on my plate. That memory is decidedly American, and French toast, aka pain perdu, is, after all, French. The French don’t eat French toast with butter and syrup and a half cup of sugar, and moreover, some brunch spots don’t serve it that way anymore either. In my quest to improve my own French toast skills, I wanted to speak to somebody knowledgeable about both brunch service and France, so I spoke with Sarah Bessade, the French-born owner of Loupiotte Kitchen, a popular café in L.A.’s Los Feliz neighborhood. Advertisement Bessade was previously the owner of Paris’ Gabylou, a restaurant that became a sensation from day one. She sold Gabylou, moved to L.A. to open Loupiotte, and suddenly she’s here smoking a cigarette talking to me about French toast. What makes a good one? What must… Read full this story
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